Full house at Capitola's Bella Roma Caffe
It has already been ten years since Chef-owner Gaetano Balsamo brought his fresh spin on Italian cuisine to Capitola Avenue. In the rear of Bella Roma Caffe, he converses with patrons sitting at the bar which overlooks his kitchen. Periodically, he makes the rounds welcoming others.
Special touches like house-made gnocchi and tortellini keep the place packed, and without a reservation, it must have been karma that secured me a table. Those who followed weren't so lucky.
Greenery graces the restaurant's entrance. A few tables are set on the front deck, and by dinner time, the Autumn sun has fallen behind Capitola's shadowing cliffs. The interior is finely but simply decorated. The bricks of the building's façade are softened by an artistic painted finish. Arches are formed into the plastered walls on which hang paintings and bas relief sculptures of Roman chariots. Small bulbs shed light from their tracks on the white patterned ceiling. Windows are draped with multi-hued fabric depicting the busts of famed ancient men. And on this bustling Friday night, the tile floors hummed with echoed conversation.
From the substantial but not overwhelming wine list, I chose a ruby red Tuscan Sangiovese from Santa Christina Antinori ($31). With 10% merlot added to enhance its body and a white napkin cravat tied fancifully around its neck, it featured cherry fruit undertones.
The accompanying bread basket included both puffy focaccia and thin slices of hard-crusted bread, delivered with soft, sweet garlic cloves steeped in warm olive oil. These accessories were perfect partners to Carpaccio di Tonno ($12.75). Sheets of tissue-thin raw ahi tuna covered the platter, and were dotted with lively minced red onions, capers, Italian parsley, and Dijon mustard.
The colorful Insalata di Spinaci ($8.25), with a light balsamic and olive oil dressing on garden-fresh spinach, was topped with bacon, slices of hard-boiled egg, and crunchy walnut pieces.
Fat pasta tubes of Rigatoni alla Genovese ($19.95) were bathed in a creamy, but not too heavy, basil pesto sauce and topped with meltingly moist and flavorful shredded chicken.
Our server, who seemed always to stop by at just the right moment, grated aged cheese from a large block and offered freshly ground pepper.
With the Caffe's mission of serving fresh, local and Italian organic ingredients, the blackboard's long list of specials should not be overlooked. Linguini Bella Roma ($26.95) with perfect swirls of al dente-cooked noodles was laced with a concentrated seafood-flavored broth. Studded with gaping mussels and clams, their tender contents joined both bay and large shrimp.
I could easily have sat there all evening savoring the pleasant ambiance. But eying those still waiting outside, I parted, hopefully with some karma to spare.
Bella Roma Caffe, 316 Capitola Ave., Capitola, 464-2608. Beer and wine. Serving dinner from 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday.
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