Still crazy about Ristorante Avanti after 21 years
Mediterranean Multiple ChoiceThe warm ambiance of Ristorante Avanti offers a multi-faceted menu which changes with the seasons. Originally serving Italian specialties, the repertoire has expanded to include other European Mediterranean fare.
Of special importance is the restaurant's relationship with local, humane, and sustainable suppliers. Caesar Salad ($7) from Route 1 Farms and Spinach Salad ($9) from Windmill Farms are proudly highlighted on the menu, while desserts feature organic cream and milk from the north coast's Straus Family Creamery.
At lunch, rustic crusted bread was served with olive oil so fragrant it was like biting into a kalamata olive. I greedily sopped up every last drop.
The midday choices include antipasti, main course salads, pastas and specialties of the house. I began with a sweet little bowl of assorted Greek Olives ($3), and awaited a bowl of Confit Duck Leg ($10).
Confit is a traditional cooking method from southwestern France. Brined with spices, and then cooked slowly in fat, it produces succulent meats. In the time before refrigeration, the surrounding cooled fat acted as a preservative as well.
The staff at Avanti understands the concept of "lunch break", and my meal arrived in a snap. The duck leg's skin was lightly browned, the soft meat separating effortlessly from the bone, flavorful with a trace of saltiness. Tomatoes and bright, textured spinach steeped in the broth, a bit of fat still floating on top. Bulbous shelling beans, also known as cranberry beans, disintegrated onto my tongue releasing their deep earthy flavor.
Come dinner time, white tablecloths cover the dark wood tables and cloth napkins replace paper ones. Approaching 7:30, the dining room was full, so we took a seat at the comfortable wine bar. The bartender's enthusiasm about the food, wines, and life in general was contagious.
Wine is available by the glass, as well as in full and half bottles. We opted for the 2004 Montecucco La Querciolina ($9 glass/$36 bottle). This dry, oak-aged ruby red wine from a young southwest Tuscan D.O.C. appellation features 100% Sangiovese grapes.
We opened with Polenta Torta ($8). A warm wedge of firm polenta was split horizontally and filled with mascarpone and basil pesto. The bright taste of roasted tomato sauce played up the lightly ground pesto, which retained bits of nuts that burst upon biting with fall flavor.
The lightly crusted Chicken Saltimbocca ($19) lay on a bed of creamy risotto dotted with cubes of orange butternut squash, and was topped with crisp halved hazelnuts and gorgonzola. Its interior featured shaved prosciutto and oozed fontina cheese.
The natural, pasture-raised Niman Ranch Skirt Steak ($25) was lusciously tender and cooked expertly to medium-rare, its plate juices harboring an enticing smoky grilled essence. The accompanying potato gratin was rich, with lightly browned cheese topping a stack of thinly sliced still-firm potatoes.
On my next visit will I sample the 6-cheese platter, the spaghetti with Watsonville's TLC baked chicken meatballs, or the multi-meat lasagna? I'll probably choose all of the above.
Ristorante Avanti, 1711 Mission St., Santa Cruz, 427-0135. Wine and beer available. Serving weekday lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., and dinner nightly from 5 p.m. Visit ristoranteavanti.com .
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