A wave of panic swept over me, shuddering my taste buds. A grand opening banner had replaced the familiar sign at my cherished breakfast spot. No worries, I was to find out, the quintessential Chilaquiles were still to be had.

Named for a lively triple-time dance, Fandango's Mexican Café has taken over the corner at the convergence of 7th Avenue and Eaton. Now sporting a cheery pumpkin paint job, the new owners' menu improves on hard to find favorites.

In addition to Chilaquiles, with perhaps a greener verde sauce and a more generous topping of queso fresco, the other breakfast specials ($6.99) still include the chunky ranchera sauce, which seemed a bit spicier, served with both Huevos Rancheros and Bistec Ranchero. Fandango's offers 15 choices of meat fillings, from fish and chicken to chili verde.

For more standard morning fare, omelets ($6.99 to $8.99) come with beans or potatoes and toast or tortillas. The El Mexicano was loaded with tart diced cactus. They also serve pancakes and homemade Belgian waffles. Coffee from Surf City joins a large espresso machine, perfect for 6 a.m. sleepy-eyed customers.

Fandango's Mexican Café, 460 7th Avenue near the harbor, open 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

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