Au Midi delivers romantic slice of Provence

From the French Riviera on the Mediterranean coast, where lavish estates draw the elite, through fields of lavender to the countryside where much of France’s produce is grown, this collection of provinces is culinary heaven. Credited with creating bouillabaisse fish stew, aioli garlic mayonnaise and chopped olive tapenade, the food prepared in the style of Provence makes advantageous use of its bounty of tomatoes, garlic and olive oil. The warm, sunny landscape has also inspired the works countless artists, such as Van Gogh, who had begun using bright colors and swirling brush strokes during the time he spent there. It is with these images in mind that I took a seat at Au Midi.

In the restaurant’s interior, warmed with colors borrowed from red wine, green olives, and sunflowers, diners congregated around crisp white tablecloths, their humming conversation spilling out onto the cheery front patio. Olive trees trellised against the lattice fence created a quiet courtyard. The outside tables were covered with brightly colored cloths featuring intertwining rosemary and olive branches, sold in towns like Arles, where small shops ring an ancient Roman amphitheatre.

At Au Midi, Chef Muriel Loubiere creates specialties from her childhood home on the French Riviera, while husband Michel welcomes guests with French flair.

As the summer sun broke through the fog, thin slices of soft yeasty bread appeared with a glass of Montirius Cotes du Rhone, one of 10 wines available by the glass ($7) or bottle ($25). This rich red vintage, a blend of biodynamically farmed grenache, syrah and mourvedre grapes, hinted of fruit with a spicy finish.

Midday at Au Midi, appetizers become luscious lunches. They serve beautiful phyllo-wrapped goat cheese accented with a reduction of beets, crusty slices of quiche Lorraine, or blue crab cakes with fennel emulsion.

I enjoyed the traditional and luscious Soupe au Pistou ($6.50), a hearty white bean and vegetable soup studded with fresh tomatoes and colorful carrots. With my giant spoon, I savored its hot thickness. In its center was a dollop of fresh basil pistou, crushed with garlic and olive oil.

In the style of Provence, the Chicken Provencale ($15.50) was superb. A moist, skinless, organic chicken leg and thigh was bathed in a wonderfully herbed sauce made with fresh tomatoes, slices of garlic and purple olives. Squares of bright, firm polenta were topped with timbales of ratatouille, Provence’s savory stew of eggplant, zucchini and fresh tomatoes, seasoned with garlic and thyme, and topped with flat leaf parsley.

For dessert I chose the Chocolate Nougat ($6.50). This pièce de résistance, sliced from a terrine of frozen chocolate mousse, was dotted with hazelnuts like a light and airy Rocky Road fudge sickle. Lightly sweetened, it quiesced in a fluid pool of crème Anglaise, which was flecked with a multitude of tiny vanilla bean seeds.

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Comments (1)

Poor attempt at fine dinning

"Over priced french cafeteria food is what you will get here.
Filtered water ya right! Tap water is served at this spot {I dont mind it}
This place has decent food at best,all the butter served at the table was "re-used,or table scrap recycled butter!} Bread is also recycled there.
On top of that the chef is supposed to be a dessert master,I saw them microwave my dessert! On the menu it says baked,but no.
I ordered the filet and found hair on the plate,not mine eww.
They are very rude here,and it looks as if they have the servers also bussing etc not allowing them to focus on service.
When my waiter did clear my table,i noticed his dirty shirt,it looked as if it hadent been washed in weeks! He was very unkept and greasy?!Ewww,and he was in tennis shoes?
Def not fine dinning,at all.

Do not support this restaurant,the food is not "fresh"but they will tell you it is.The chef/owner came and said hello after our meal and she reaked of ciggerettes! My wife speaks french and overheard the owners conversation,these are very rude people to say the least!

If you want to enjoy GOOD french food the place to go is Ma masion.
Au midi is cafeteria food next to ma masion,and a waste of money and time.

I will never eat there again."

David jones , September 19, 2008

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