Balls of handmade dough are run through a two-stage roller, then tossed and stretched thin. The edges are folded under to plump the circumference and placed on a long-handled paddle called a pizza peel. The pastry’s surface is meticulously covered with up to 25 tasty toppings. Organic tofu spread can even replace mozzarella to make any pizza vegan. Slid onto the floor of the red-hot oven, each pie is carefully rotated until baked to crisp perfection.

I cherish Engfer’s cheese pizza, where herbal nuances of its carmine-colored sauce sparkle through its simplicity. But on this night I braved a large Hot Corralitos Nights ($21). This 14-inch masterpiece was covered with fresh spinach, then diced mozzarella cheese and bits of fennel-laced Corralitos sausage. Thin mushrooms absorbed smoky undertones, the finely minced garlic fanning the flames of spicy jalapeno rings. I was grateful for the smooth, tangy sweetness of Lost Coast Brewery’s Raspberry Brown Ale.

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