After placing my order at the counter, I helped myself to a plate and utensils, and chose a table at the front window, looking out on the southern end of the Pacific Garden Mall.

Two skylights offer additional brightness to the simple, yet meticulously appointed interior. Sponge-painted wainscoting in colors of cinnamon and saffron encircle the large room. The open kitchen is surrounded by a shiny pink and black marbled counter whose sides are attractively tiled.

This Mantoo ($4.99) included six five-sided envelopes of thin dough, each bearing delicately seasoned ground lamb. Drenched in snow white yogurt, they were crowned with a colorful column of dhal made with both dried yellow and fresh green peas, and sprinkled with dried mint.  I scooped up the fresh, pure yogurt with four large quarters of tender naan flatbread ($1.99), heated and speckled by the walls of the tandoori clay oven.

Khyber Pass also serves a wide variety of grilled and baked kebabs, curries, and tandoori-baked meats. Vegetarians will be satiated with masalas, saffron- and cumin-scented rice, legumes, and spinach cooked with homemade paneer cheese.

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