But walk inside, and soft lighting from slowly moving ceiling fans creates a tranquil mood. The sharp right angles of the rectangular front windows are softened by the serpentine flow of slat-paneled room dividers with varnished top rails. Plaster arches disguise roof support beams.

The restaurant’s seafood tradition spans three decades, and last year new owners Jeff and Jackie Briggs incorporated a bit of California fresh French flair.

Offering both hot and cold appetizers, the cavernous bowl of Mussels ($16) was bathed in a luscious, butter-rich white wine broth.

 The pair of Café Rio Crab Cakes ($11.50) was fried to an exquisite crispness. Cutting through the tan crumb coating revealed pieces of sweet crustacean meat, simply seasoned to avoid overwhelming the delicate flavor. The complementary aioli dipping sauce was flavored with fresh basil and chopped sun-dried tomatoes.

The strikingly artistic Ahi Tuna Nicoise Salad ($16) is Executive Chef Jeff’s modern fusion interpretation of a French Mediterranean classic. The centerpiece, a perfect shaft of seared ahi tuna, was halved to reveal its rare mauve interior, and held upright by a coiled belt of thin crisp cucumber strips. Surrounded by a bed of multi-colored greens, quartered hard-boiled egg, blanched green beans, colossally sized olives, halved cherry tomatoes, and sprinkled with chopped chives, it was drizzled with a snappy-thick anchovy vinaigrette.

Salad or soup, such as the roux-based Fishmonger can be added to entrées ($4). The house salad of tender mixed greens and thinly sliced vegetables was dressed with Dijon vinaigrette and topped with crumbles of veined blue cheese and bay shrimp.

Three hand-harvested Diver Scallops ($24) were served with ribbons of crisp proscuitto over pecan rice pilaf and wilted organic chard. With lemony undertones and sweet, firm flesh, they were cooked to a perfect medium-rare.

Brick dough, of North African heritage, is as thin as phyllo, but not buttery, and has both savory and sweet applications. As the casing for Café Rio’s Baked Swordfish ($28), it held an exceptional medley of unusual and complementary flavors. The plump browned packet held a firm fish steak, bits of olives, and preserved lemons, bestowing upon it both bitter and sweet essences. It sat on a bed of meaty cooked tomatoes which were drizzled with aromatic oil.

Whether your aim is an outdoor beachfront lunch or a romantic candlelit dinner, the quality and versatility of Chef Jeff’s palette will create a masterpiece certain to delight your palate.

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