Tenderfoot of farm-raised abalone is sustainable seafood

Gathering these univalve gastropods, found clinging to rocks with their meaty feet, has been regulated since at least 1901. A combination of disease and over-fishing caused complete closure of California’s commercial fishery in 1997. Since adults spray sperm and eggs into the open sea, population density is critical to the species’ survival. With a high larval mortality rate, estimated at up to 90 percent, and lethal, naturally-occurring bacteria, poaching remains a key problem.

Of the seven California species, only the red abalone may still be taken recreationally, and only north of the Golden Gate. Fishing restrictions are plentiful. Divers cannot use assisted breathing such as SCUBA, or even carry such gear on their watercraft. They must be in possession of an approved measuring device. Only three abalone can be gathered each day, with a maximum quota of 24 annually. The seven-inch minimum size constraint protects smaller animals at the peak of reproductive prowess.

Strong global demand for this highly-prized mollusk has spawned a growing farm industry that is stoutly regulated, and well-managed. Because of this, Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program has designated farmed abalone as a “Best Choice” for sustainable seafood selection. At one such farm, set back from a cove of the Monterey Bay above the wide Davenport Landing Beach, 75,000 pounds of abalone is produced annually for international consumption.

Mike, at American Abalone, explained the raising, handling and preparation of these large sea snails to this novice. Beginning life in circular nursing tanks, and then moved to rectangular basins, they are fed fresh seawater and sustainably harvested kelp. It takes three years to achieve three-inch market size, weighing 90 grams, or about three ounces.

Mike explained how to separate the foot from the shell, cut the quarter-size attachment with a thin knife, remove the head, and then tenderize gently with a rolling pin. He agreed that grilling is very popular, but for not more than 40 seconds, reminding me that over-cooking makes them tough. He then selected two meaty creatures from the tank ($5 each), placed them on a foam pad in a large plastic bag and filled it with oxygen to keep them healthy. He assured me they could spend up to 48 hours in my refrigerator.

Back at home, as I less-than-deftly slayed my catch, severing chaff from delectable meat, I gained appreciation for the six-pack of perfectly formed, frozen and tenderized abalone we had also purchased. Each precious little steak is about 100 calories, and is very high in Vitamin E and numerous minerals.

Abalone can be purchased on Saturdays from the farm, or shipped frozen. Details can be found on their website, which also includes recipes.

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