Barbeque, barbecue, Bar-B-Q. A slow and typically indirect cooking method, it’s as much about the process and the party that goes along with it, as it is the food. Walking down the street I sniff telltale smoke wafting from a neighbor’s kettle and wish we were better friends. That’s when I head to the Hindquarter Bar and Grille, now celebrating its 20th anniversary.

If you can’t decide between chicken, ribs and pork chops, the HQ Smokey Platter ($22.99) features all three.

The quarter “Rocky the Range Chicken” grew up at Petaluma Poultry, where it lived in spacious pens with daytime outdoor access. Its scented meat is lightly basted with a honeyed peach glaze.

The large, white Virginia Center-Cut Pork Chops are cooked over the wood from apple trees. Grill marks decorate the smoky surface.

The small rack of steaming Chicago-style baby back ribs is also sweetly glazed, its tender meat pulling easily from slender bones.

Enjoy your meal in one of the comfortable dining rooms. Or opt for a more traditional barbecue-style experience, in the lively and social bar.

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