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Sep 02nd
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Dining

Restaurant dining and wine reviews for Santa Cruz County >
Menu Guide for Santa Cruz area.

Wine Reviews

Coastview Vineyard

Coastview Vineyard

Chardonnay 2008


Soif wine bar on Walnut Avenue in the heart of Santa Cruz is well worth a visit if you haven’t been there. When it comes to wine, they don’t pussyfoot around—preferring instead to carry a selection of wines of note and interest. This is where I tasted Coastview Vineyard’s Chardonnay 2008, Terraces—a pale yellow beauty made by winemaker Ian Brand. Awash with luscious fruit, this is a bold Chardonnay for sure—with amazing flavors of lemon, golden apple and a touch of pear. The wine was fermented with native yeast—and was bottled unfined and unfiltered.

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Dining Reviews

Family Night

Family Night

Traditional Japanese fare and energetic sushi masters keep Rumble Fish packed to the gills

I certainly have my own list of favorite Japanese dishes, but I task myself to experience new ones as well. Such was the case during a recent dinner at Scotts Valley's Rumble Fish.

For starters, the Goa-Ae ($4.95) was a hillock of wilted spinach flavored with a generous amount of coarse, nutty sesame seed paste. A thin slice of tender beef with the flavor of skirt steak was rolled around a spear of asparagus, thin julienne of carrots and red cabbage, and cut sushi roll style.

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Dining Reviews

Got Brats?

Got Brats?At Dawgs!, Mardi Meyer and Cyndi Beason have taken a ball park staple and kicked it up a notch. Or six. The ladies originally envisioned a food cart, but thought the renewed popularity of hot dogs would be a perfectly fun, family-friendly fit for Scotts Valley.
They wanted their restaurant to be a unique experience. Beason noted that everyone serves fries, so they opted instead for thick house-made potato chips with a dusting of either Ranch or BBQ seasoning. The condiment bar offers traditional toppings including two kinds of mustard plus jalapeños and hot sauce.
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Wine Reviews

Odonata Wines

Odonata Wines

Chardonnay 2008

Denis Hoey, winemaker and owner of Odonata, is having no trouble at all in selling his wines. Talking with him about his recent release of Rose, I had set my sights on getting a bottle, but he emailed me to say he had sold the whole lot. I’ll have to wait now until his next release. Ever since he opened up in the Surf City Vintners complex on Ingalls Street on the Westside of Santa Cruz, he has been very successful with his intriguing wines.

The 2008 Chardonnay, Peter Martin Ray Vineyard ($24), is full of crisp minerality with aromas of stone fruits and pear. It’s just a beautiful wine—with grapes coming from a very historic vineyard high in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

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Dining Reviews

Thai for Two

Thai for Two

The bright colors of lightly cooked vegetables sparkle in Sawasdee's uniquely flavored dishes

We occasionally visit Soquel on our errands day. It's either the dentist, stylist or CPA that brings us into the town, and even though my husband and I differ wildly on Scoville index tolerance levels, Sawasdee Thai Cuisine's huge menu satisfies us both.

Sawasdee's home is bright and cheerful, with lavender, white and paprika walls and an occasional fanciful carving. Gilded pottery lined the counter, which was busy with take-out orders, and colorful woven runners gleamed from under glass tabletops.

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Dining Reviews

Afternoon Delight

Afternoon Delight

Outside it was gray and drizzly, but to enter Cafe Sparrow at lunchtime was like stepping into spring in Provence. Pastel sponge-painted chairs surrounded tables draped with colorful cloths and lace, protected with glass tops and paper doily placemats.

Sourdough bread with chewy crusts and soft centers was served with fresh butter. The Iced Tea ($3.50) was playfully flavored with black currants.

Two crisply browned Crab Cakes ($11.50), soft and moist in the middles, lusciously fell apart. The delicate crab flavor peeked out between tiny bits of red pepper.

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Wine Reviews

Folie à Deux Winery

Folie à Deux Winery

Menage à Trois 2008

How very clever of the marketing team at Folie à Deux Winery in Oakville to come up with the saucy name of Menage à Trois for their range of blends of three different wines. With its naughty connotations, Menage à Trois is an easy name to remember. Whoever came up with this name deserves free wine for the rest of his life.

The Folie à Deux California Red seemed like an appropriate wine to drink at a very sensuous evening of belly dancing—a show I went to with a couple of friends recently at Don Quixote’s International Music Hall in Felton.

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Dining Reviews

And Betty Makes Three

And Betty Makes Three

Betty Burgers Eat Inn on Pacific storms out of the gate with dynamite menu additions and a full bar

When Betty Burgers' sister restaurant Vida left town, Betty moved right in to the space on Pacific Avenue, leaving her shiny old Airstream trailer right on the new patio. Fried chicken, buttermilk biscuits and mashed potatoes with gravy are just a taste of the down-home-style comfort food that Betty's slingin' at her new Eat Inn.

The restaurant was packed on opening weekend, and a week later during a mid-week late lunch it was almost at capacity. The smiling, energetic staff was still learning the ropes – there was no service on the patio for ten minutes and then we were double-covered. A few days later, service was perfect on a very busy dinner shift.

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Dining Reviews

Asada Muy Bueno

Asada Muy Bueno

A taco bar named Leo's sounds less than authentic but it was co-founded by Leonel Espinoza and Maria E. Valencia whose names are associated with La Mission and Cafe el Palomar. The kitchen is larger than the restaurant in this Live Oak establishment, and what it creates is remarkable.

A charbroiled salmon taco ($4) was so loaded with chunks of fish I ate half of it with a fork before I could pick it up. It was topped with fire-roasted salsa, cabbage, cilantro and tomatoes. The Carne Asada Taco ($2.25) was just as large. The pieces of steak were tender, smoky and charred as if barbecued in the traditional manner.

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Wine Reviews

Skov Winery

Skov Winery

Zinfandel 2008


Annette and David Hunt, who used to own Roudon-Smith Winery, have made a sweeping change and formed a new venture by opening up Skov Winery. Fortunately, they are still in the same bucolic spot down Bean Creek Road in Scotts Valley, and have the same expert winemaker Brandon Armitage. And judging from the impressive turnout at their grand opening last month, it looks like they are off to a cracking start.

Skov, which means “forest” in Danish, reflects on the Danish heritage of Annette, but it’s also a very appropriate name for their winery as it’s located smack in the middle of a dense population of mighty redwoods.

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Mercury Enters Libra

It’s the week of Burning Man, the temporary, intentional, alternative, art-filled community on the playas of Nevada. Mercury, messenger of the Sun, enters Libra this week. Libra is the equalizer, a sign of balance and right human relations. Sometimes with Libra, we can be indecisive and confused while learning how to make balanced and right choices. Sometimes to keep the peace we communicate only what others want to hear. Eventually, we learn how to speak from the heart.

 

Final Cut

Cedar Street Video to close after 10 years at downtown location

 

Banter and Spark

Engaging actors, wry script distinguish lightweight rom-com ‘What If’

 

Back to Silicon Beach

With a new wave of startups, the future of Santa Cruz tech looks more promising than ever
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Himalayan Kitchen

Chef Purna Regmi on the secrets of Nepalese cooking

 

What’s the nicest thing you’ve done for someone this week?

Germany  |  Beekeeper

 

Best of Santa Cruz County

The 2013 Santa Cruz County Readers' Poll and Critics’ Picks It’s our biggest issue of the year, and in it, your votes—more than 6,500 of them—determined the winners of The Best of Santa Cruz County Readers’ Poll. New to the long list of local restaurants, shops and other notables that captured your interest: Best Beer Selection, Best Locally Owned Business, Best Customer Service and Best Marijuana Dispensary. In the meantime, many readers were ever so chatty online about potential new categories. Some of the suggestions that stood out: Best Teen Program and Best Web Design/Designer. But what about: Dog Park, Church, Hotel, Local Farm, Therapist (I second that!) or Sports Bar—not to be confused with Bra. Our favorite suggestion: Best Act of Kindness—one reader noted Café Gratitude and the free meals it offered to the Santa Cruz Police Department in the aftermath of recent crimes. Perhaps some of these can be woven into next year’s ballot, so stay tuned. In the meantime, enjoy the following pages and take note of our Critics’ Picks, too, beginning on page 91. A big thanks for voting—and for reading—and an even bigger congratulations to all of the winners. Enjoy.  -Greg Archer, EditorBest of Santa Cruz County Readers’ Poll INDEX

 

A Cab To Be Coveted

I first tasted Villa del Monte’s 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon at a Fourth of July party, where the hosts had bought a case of it because they love it and didn’t want to run out. It’s one of those wines that will grab you—in the best way—with its full body and rich fruit characteristics.