Santa Cruz Good Times

Thursday
Nov 27th
Text size
  • Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size

The 19th Hole

Dining_HollinsAt Hollins House Restaurant, a new chef and menu complement the original vision for Pasatiempo

Marion Hollins, the U.S. Women's Amateur Golf Champion in 1921, was also the only American woman with a handicap in men's polo. In designing the championship golf course at Pasatiempo, her vision was to take advantage of the local topography, and indeed, golfers tee off across canyons, and the seemingly hundreds of bunkers hold more sand than Its Beach. Her home, now Hollins House Restaurant, looks out over the manicured first fairway and sports a new chef who also draws heavily from local and natural sources.

The main dining room, with widely spaced tables and a fireplace at each end, is enhanced by crystal chandeliers and large uncurtained windows which look out to Monterey. Instrumental flamenco music contributed to the comfortable mood at lunch.

Three sweet Pan-Seared Dayboat Scallops ($12), so named because they are hand-harvested instead of trawled, were browned nicely on the outside, soft and buttery inside, and served atop a parsley-flecked butter, and tart Eureka lemon sauce.

The Club Sandwich ($10), served on three thin slices of lightly toasted sourdough included creamy avocado, multicolored heirloom tomatoes and ruffled green lettuce with roasted Diestel turkey breast, and soft, chewy apple wood-smoked bacon. The thin, crisp lattices of house-made potato chips were incredible.
Large doors open into the adjacent Tap Room where we enjoyed dinner. Here, the ambiance is more casual, and historic photos line the pale green walls. The hot pink Mandarin-Pomegranate Martini ($9), made with Absolut mandarin vodka and fresh lime juice, was sweet, tart, and dangerously drinkable. Warm slices of crusty, soft sourdough bread were served with balsamic vinegar and nice, earthy olive oil.

I could actually see and taste crab in the two San Francisco-style Crab Cakes ($10). Not burdened with starchy binder, the delicately seasoned pan-roasted patties were extremely moist and creamy inside; rather the consistency of mayonnaise. Pink aioli tasted of smoky roasted red pepper, and fresh rocket greens offered a mild bitterness.

The velvety mound of Torn Living Butter Lettuce Salad ($9) was drizzled with light golden balsamic dressing and served with sweet lacquered pecans and more bacon.
The prix fixe dinner of the evening ($50) included the crab cakes and salad along with Black Angus New York steak. Two thick triangles of beef, lined with perpendicular grill marks, were perfectly medium rare and finished with wonderfully bold Tellicherry peppercorns. It was served with local smoky grilled asparagus and layers of paper-thin slices of Yukon Gold potatoes au gratin.

The dense meat of a thick Pan-Roasted Double-Cut Heirloom Berkshire Pork Chop ($28) was deglazed with white wine and topped with tart capers.
During dessert, colorful lights twinkled from the Giant Dipper in the distance. Crème Brûlée, served with the prix fixe, was soft and creamy with a crunchy glazed sugar top. I was astonished at the Mousse Sampler ($10). Three edible dark and white-streaked chocolate cups, roughly the size of tennis balls, each held a scoop of the whipped French dessert; white chocolate with coconut, milk chocolate with caramel, and dark chocolate with hazelnuts.
Hollins House, 20 Clubhouse Road, Santa Cruz, 459-9155. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Visit pasatiempo.com.
Comments (1)Add Comment
...
written by Tom McIntyre, August 10, 2010
Perceptive and timely review. I've had the pleasure of eating at Hollins 3 times since the introduction of the new chef and his menu. Each has been an outstanding event. The combination of the unparalleled ambiance of Hollins House with the enticing menu combine to make both lunch and dinner one of the most reward eating experiences available on the Bay. And, virtually all of the components of the meals are obtained locally.

Tom McIntyre

Write comment
smaller | bigger

busy
 

Share this on your social networks

Bookmark and Share

Share this

Bookmark and Share

 

Good Times Holiday Giving

Giving Where It Helps

 

Giving Thanks: The Thought-Form of Solution

We are in the time and under the influence of Sagittarius, sign of the wanderer, good food, good music, and the joy (Jupiter as ruler) that occurs from giving to others while simultaneously giving thanks from our hearts. Having the Thanksgiving holiday during the month of Sag is not a mistake. No other sign understands joy (an aspect of the Soul) as Sag (except Pisces when not in despair). “Sag is a beam of directed and focused light. The beam reveals a greater light ahead, illuminating the Way to the center of the Light,” emitting the Ray of Joyfulness. Thanksgiving is a time for gratitude; in the form of prayers, thoughts, feelings, wishes, hopes and greetings. Gratitude is something we still need to learn. Gratitude creates goodwill. Together, gratitude and goodwill create the “thought-form of solution” for humanity and our world’s problems. Gratitude and goodwill are the prerequisites for the reappearance of the Christ, the Aquarian World Teacher. In Ancient Wisdom texts it is written, “being grateful is the hallmark of one who is enlightened.” Gratitude comes from the Soul—the characteristics of which are love and wisdom (Ray 2). Gratitude is scientifically and occultly (mental, not emotional) a releasing agent. Gratitude liberates us and everything around us. Also a service to others, gratitude is deeply scientific in nature, releasing us from the past and laying open our future path leading to the new culture and civilization, the new laws and principles, the rising light of Aquarian, the Age of Friendship and Equality. The Hierarchy lays much emphasis upon gratitude. Let us be grateful this year and this season together. And so now the days of light illuminating the darkness begin (December’s festivals and feast days). Happy Thanksgiving, everyone. I am grateful for all of you, my readers.

 

The New Tech Nexus

Community leaders in science and technology unite to form web-based networking program

 

Film, Times & Events: Week of November 28

Santa Cruz area movie theaters >
Sign up for Good Times weekly newsletter
Get the latest news, events

RSS Feed Burner

 Subscribe in a reader

Latest Comments

 

Round About Now

The glory of persimmons, plus Ivéta scone mix and lunch at Assembly

 

What charities would you like to see people support this season?

Judy Allen, Scotts Valley, Consulting

 

Big Basin Vineyards

I was just in the process of purchasing a bottle of Big Basin’s 2012 Homestead in Vinocruz when Matt Ryan walked into the store. Ryan manages the tasting room, sales and the mailing list at Big Basin, and, considering the popularity of their wines, he’s a very busy man.

 

Ashby Confections

Local chocolate maker talks chocolate and self control