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Santa Cruz’s Big Wave Guinness Book of World record owner Shawn Dollar

blog_actionAt first glance Shawn Dollar might not strike you as someone that hurls themselves down a 55’ foot wave. Let alone in the middle of the 2009-2010 Mavericks contest that held some of the biggest waves ever for a paddle in competition. Dollar represents Santa Cruz in solid form, born on the Westside he moved to the Eastside when he was 8 and started junior guards where he fell in love with surfing. The first days of surfing for Shawn were weekends with his dad being pushed into waves at Cowell Beach and surfing different reefs and beach breaks as he progressed. Fast forward to Shawn attending Cal Poly and searching out the highly coveted Central California big wave spots alone defining his big wave surfing.

The first opportunity for Mavericks came 4 years ago when Dollar was a board caddy for Kenny “Skindog” Collins during the 2006 Mavericks contest. His first wave he dropped into a 40 footer, right then Shawn had put himself on the map. His brush with the XXL awards would come just 2 short years later when he was passed over for biggest paddle in wave of the year. When asked about training, he kind of chuckles about running and surfing as much as possible but the interesting thing was the comments on visualizing the waves he rides.

Obviously our conversation went back to the wave, the 55 foot Guinness Book of World Records/Billabong XXL winner biggest paddle in ever wave. Once again Dollar was Skindog’s board caddy in the massive 50 foot surf this last year, when a break in between heats allowed the chance to catch a wave just like he had 4 years prior. First hand from Dollar “there were some big sets we had all paddled over, I had seen rogue waves on days like this breaking on one of the outer reefs when we would tow and I felt like there would be a day we could paddle into one of these monsters. About the 5th or 6th wave of the set I saw my wave; it was big, one of the biggest of the day. I thought for a second I might be too deep then I realized if I had a chance to catch this wave I had to stay in the bowl. I put my head down and paddled with everything I had, the drop seemed like forever all I could think was don’t stick, keep the nose up and as I came to the bottom of the wave I could see the whole wave stand up and I knew I was in for a beating, but I had just caught the wave of my life.”

Winning the Billabong XXL Award for Biggest Paddle In Wave was the furthest thing from Dollar’s mind until Peter Mel called the next morning and spelled it out “You just paddled into the biggest wave in human history, biggest wave ever paddled into.” Guinness Book of World Records has the submission but the coolest part is the fact the wave IS a world record, only surfers Greg Knoll, Taylor Knox hold similar records and to be the next one Shawn states “that’s an honor”. While he has other things that matter in life, he would entertain the big wave contest circuit if the time is right, but his business of action sports companies is where he is grounded. Shawn’s day job is representing Von Zipper Sunglasses, Xcel Wetsuits, Reef Sandals, FCS and JS Surfboards for Northern California.

One thing is certain with Shawn Dollar, this new face of big wave surfing has once again been established from the town of Santa Cruz California…

“I am just livin in the moment…and surfing.” ~Shawn Dollar

Photo Credit Tyler Fox http://www.santacruzwaves.com

 

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written by james burtnett, May 10, 2010
WOW! WOW!WOW!WOW!

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Heart Me Up

In defense of Valentine’s Day

 

“be(ing) of love (a little) more careful”—e.e. cummings

Wednesday (Feb. 10) is Ash Wednesday, when Lent begins. Friday (Feb. 12) is Lincoln’s 207th birthday. Sunday is Valentine’s Day. On Ash Wednesday, with foreheads marked with a cross of ashes, we hear the words, “From dust thou art and unto dust thou shalt return.” Reminding us that our bodies, made of matter, will remain here on Earth when we are called back. It is our Soul that will take us home again. Lent offers us 40 days and nights of purification in preparation for the Resurrection (Easter) festival (an initiation) and for the Three Spring Festivals (at the time of the full moon)—Aries, Taurus, Gemini. The New Group of World Servers have been preparing since Winter Solstice. The number 40 is significant. The Christ (Pisces World Teacher) was in the desert for 40 days and 40 nights prior to His three-year ministry. The purpose of this desert exile was to prepare his Archangel (light) body to withstand the pressures of the Earth plane (form and matter). We, too, in our intentional purifications and prayers during the 40 days of Lent, prepare ourselves (physical body, emotions, lower mind) to receive and be able to withstand the irradiation of will, love/wisdom and light streaming into the Earth at spring equinox, Easter, and the Three Spiritual Festivals. What is Lent? The Anglo-Saxon word, lencten, comes from an ancient spring festival, agricultural rites marking the transition between winter and summer. The seasons reflect changes in nature (physical world) and humanity responds with social festivals of gratitude and of renewal. There is a purification process, prayerfulness in nature and in humanity in preparation for a great flow of spiritual energies during springtime. Valentine’s Day: Aquarius Sun, Taurus moon. Let us offer gifts of comfort, ease, harmony, beauty and satisfaction. Things chocolate and golden. Venus and Taurus things.

 

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