Santa Cruz Good Times

Apr 19th
Text size
  • Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size

Special Treatment

dining zacharyUnique culinary touches at Zachary's have kept us coming back for 26 years

Babies know not the difference between weekends and weekdays, and my oldest awoke by 6:30 every morning. On Saturdays we'd either drive to the wharf, or put him in an aluminum-framed backpack and walk downtown for breakfast. Once, when my not-quite toddling son dragged his backpack to my bedside, sadly on a school day, I knew he was hungry for Zachary's.

The interior has changed little. It has the same well-worn wooden floors, bench seating topped with cushions, orbs of light chained to the ceiling and glossy, patched eggshell walls, now decorated with photographs of the Boardwalk.

A restaurant that has fed us for over a quarter of a century, which survived the earthquake, whose menu has changed minimally, and which continues to have long waitlists on weekends is most certainly something special.

In fact, each day you will find a different special house-made soup, chili, omelet, scramble, coffee cake, fruit pancake, and version of Miguel's delicious salsa.

For me it's the numerous unique twists that set Zachary's spin on common dishes apart. For instance, sourdough pancakes require more attention than other kinds. The sour starter is a symbiotic ecosystem that includes the bacteria Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis, which floats freely in the city's air. A portion of starter is taken from the mother and replaced with flour and water. If so fed regularly it can live indefinitely. San Francisco's Boudin bread starter dates back to the Gold Rush.

Pancake batter leavened only with starter results in thin and tender cakes ($4.50 (3)/$6.25 (5) which are vaguely sour, a bit smoky, and tasty enough to season with butter alone. Zachary's also offers sourdough Belgian waffles ($4.95).

The cup of fruit ($3.50) included nine different items, including fresh sections of tangerine, mango, and kiwi fruit. A three-piece side of bacon ($2.95) was smoky and perfectly chewy.

The generous bowl of hot cereal is a hearty multi-grain ($3.95). The oatmeal-molasses, dark rye and sourdough breads are all house-made, as are scones, muffins, sour hamburger rolls, jalapeño corn bread and rice pudding. The juices are fresh, the coffee fair-trade and organic, and the eggs cage-free from Glaum Egg Ranch in Aptos. The orange-spice iced tea is brewed from a house blend and leaves a lovely pumpkin pie aftertaste. dining zacharyroom

Even at lunch, the dishes receive special treatment. Sandwiches come with potato salad, fresh fruit, or the incredible home-fries. These turmeric-colored soft slices of skin-on potato are seasoned with herbs mixed with onions and griddled. I especially like the crisp, almost burned pieces. To go with the home-fries (they are almost a meal in themselves) I ordered the Ahi Tuna Melt ($9.50). Both slices of the house dark rye bread were sprinkled with herbs, and topped with nutty Jarlsberg Swiss cheese. Sandwiched in-between were sweet rings of caramelized red onion and tuna salad, which was creamy but not runny, with firm flakes of canned tuna, and bits of celery and red onion.

Other special lunch touches include smoked peppered bacon in the 1/3 pound cheeseburger ($10.50) and chutney dressing on the spinach salad ($7.25).

Zachary's Restaurant, 819 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 427-0646. Beer and wine. Serving breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. until 2:30 p.m.
Comments (0)Add Comment

Write comment
smaller | bigger


Share this on your social networks

Bookmark and Share

Share this

Bookmark and Share


Cardinal Grand Cross in the Sky

Following Holy Week (passion, death and burial of the Pisces World Teacher) and Easter Sunday (Resurrection Festival), from April 19 to the 23, the long-awaited and discussed Cardinal Cross of Change appears in the sky, composed of Cardinal signs Aries, Libra, Cancer, and Capricorn, with planets (13-14 degrees) Uranus (in Aries), Jupiter (in Cancer), Mars (in Libra) and Pluto (in Capricorn), an actual geometrical square or cross configuration. Cardinal signs mark the seasons of change, initiating new realities.


Sugar: The New Tobacco?

Proposed bill would require warning labels on sugary drinks Will soda and other saccharine libations soon come with a health warning? They will if it’s up to our state senator, Bill Monning (D-Carmel). On Feb. 27, Monning proposed first-of-its-kind legislation that would require a consumer warning label be placed on sugar-sweetened beverages sold in California. SB 1000, also known as the Sugar-Sweetened Beverages Safety Warning Act, was proposed to provide vital information to consumers about the harmful effects of consuming sugary drinks, such as sodas, sports drinks, energy drinks, and sweetened teas.


Film, Times & Events: Week of April 17

Santa Cruz area movie theaters >


Growing Hope

Campos Seguros combats sexual assault in the Watsonville farmworker community Farm work was a way of life for Rocio Camargo, who grew up in Watsonville as the daughter of Mexican immigrants. Her parents met while working the fields 30 years ago, and her father went on to run Fuentes Berry Farms.
Sign up for Tomorrow's Good Times Today
Upcoming arts & events

Latest Comments


Foodie File: Red Apple Cafe

Breakfast takes center stage at Gracia Krakauer's Red Apple Cafe Before they moved to Aptos, Gracia and her husband Dan Krakauer would visit friends in Santa Cruz County and eat at the Red Apple Café all the time. Then they moved up here from Santa Monica five years ago, and bought the Aptos location (there’s a separate one in Watsonville) from the family who owned it for two decades.


How would you feel about a tech industry boom in Santa Cruz?

I feel like it would ruin the small old-town feeling of Santa Cruz. It wouldn’t be the same Surf City kind of vacation town that it is. Antoinette BennettSanta Cruz | Construction Management


Trout Gulch Vineyards

Cinsault 2012—la grande plage diurne The most popular wines on store shelves are those most generally known and available—Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which are all superb for sure. But when you come across a more unusual varietal, like Trout Gulch Vineyards’ Cinsault ($18), it opens up a whole new world.


Waddell Creek, Al Fresco

Route One Summer Farm Dinner You’ve been buying their insanely fresh produce for years now at farmers’ markets. Right? So now why not become more familiar with the gorgeous Waddell Creek farmlands of Route One Farms?